The X Region in southern Chile, more frequently referred to as Region de los Lagos, is made up of four provinces, Osorno, Llanquihue, Chiloé and Palena. It marks the beginning of the great Chilean Patagonia offering eye popping wonders in every direction.

Río Bueno on the Pacific coast marks the beginning of the region’s northern boundary, which stretches across the narrow width of Chile to the boarder with Argentina in the east. It then works its way down south to the Palena province and west to include the archipelago of Chiloé. The Pacific coast makes up the entire western border.

If relaxing in luxurious lakeside resorts or bubbling away in the healing waters of a hot spring and partaking in a variety of outdoor sports is your idea of the best travel experience then this is the place for you.

Visitors usually make a quick tour of Osorno city before heading off to sample nearby lakes and volcanoes. The city is a buzz of commercialism and industry but for those wishing an alternative to city accommodation the rustic beach town of Entre Lagos 50km east of Osorno makes a nice stopover.

The surrounding area of Lago Puyehue just past Entre Lagos should be your next destination and views of volcanoes Puyehue, Casablanca, Osorno, Calbuco and Puntiagudo make a stunning passage. Termas de Puyehue is one of Chile’s most famous hot springs. This grand, old-style resort defines luxury. The indoor and outdoor pools both have massaging jet streams and guests can indulge in a pampering variety of seaweed, mud and essential oils treatments.

Soaking in a hot spring is not only relaxing, it’s also very good for your health. The mineral-rich waters are known to promote relaxation of the nervous system and act as a painkiller for aching, sore muscles. A luxurious dip should revitalize even the weariest of travellers.

After the relaxing waters of Termas de Puyehue, you should be bursting with energy to explore the Parque Nacional Puyehue. Protecting 107,000 hectares of rainforest and wild flora and fauna species, pristine hiking trails and nature observation are at your fingertips. The Conaf information centre has an interesting display on the natural history and geomorphology of the park. Agua Calientes is a very popular hot springs resort and offers an indoor pool and a very pleasant riverside pool outside. Camping at Camping Chanleufú is available for those wanting to get a little closer to nature. Last but not least, the ski centre at Antillanca is also within the park’s boundaries.

Llanquihue province; rivers, lakes, mountain, everythinks

Lago Rupanco southeast of Osorno is an attractive viewing point for Volcán Puntiagudo and the surrounding mountain chain. The lake has two islands, Las Cabras and Los Ciervos, the latter is a breeding ground for European deer. Fishing is also popular around this area which offers some specialized fishing lodges.

The tiny town of Puerto Octay, on the northern shores of Lago Llanquihue is a wonderful entrance to this popular area. The town’s tidy German colonialism is a lovely alternative for those in search of a less touristy spot to relax.

Chile received an influx of German immigrants 150 years ago. Triggered by political turbulence in Europe and at the invitation of the Chilean government to assist in populating the region, they brought with them skilled craftsmen, scientists, doctors, academics and good beer. Their influence adds a strong European flavour to many towns and villages in the south. The lakeside of Frutillar offers sedate walks and well maintained German architecture including the gorgeous Museo Histórico Colonial Alemán. Frutillar also hosts a music festival featuring styles from jazz to chamber in late January and early February. A wide variety of quality accommodation from the inviting views of Hotel Ayacara to the country comforts of “Hotel am See”, serving homemade breads and cakes, all make for a pleasurable stay. The next port of call is Puerto Varas. Known as “the rose city”, Puerto Varas has maintained a friendly and welcoming ambience despite its popularity amongst tourists. From kayaking to canoeing, rock climbing to horseback riding or fly fishing, Puerto Varas offers all. In addition, superb lake views, great accommodation, lively restaurants and pubs and a plush casino normally have visitors extending their stay. A walking tour of the city takes in 28 different houses from the early 20th century and the magnificent, Iglesia del Sagrado Corazón, is perched on a hill overlooking the town. To appreciate its impressive grandeur, simply look up. Local tour operators are able to organise fun filled packages of every kind that will not disappoint.

Beautiful Ensenada is closer to Volcán Osorno than Puerto Varas and has some great accommodation options and Volcán Calbuco is also close by. Yankee Way Lodge offers fly fishing enthusiasts just about everything they can imagine from luxurious accommodation, a lakeside position to a first class restaurant. Onces Bellavista is famous for its “onces”, the Chilean equivalent of Britain’s “tea time”. Delicious smoked salmon, cheeses and küchen can be sampled whilst enjoying stunning views of lake and volcano. For those wishing an early start to hike up Volcán Osorno or to ski down it, Ensenada is the place to stay.

Within Parque Nacional Vicente Peréz Rosales, even the most seasoned traveller will pay homage to the emerald waters of Lagos Todos los Santos, the cascading glory of waterfall Saltos del Petrohué and the snowy peaks of Volcán Osorno, Puntiagudo and Mnt. Tronador. Paso Vuriloche echoes the footsteps of the Mapuche, who successfully managed to conceal this route between the Andes from the Spanish for more than a century. Rafting, kayaking and climbing excursions can all be organised from Petrohué.

A wonderful and popular travel route takes visitors from Puerto Varas through Ensenada, past Volcán Osorno, Saltos del Petrohué, Lago Todos los Santos across the Peréz Rosales Pass to Bariloche in Argentina, over land by bus and across lake by boat.

Climbing enthusiasts should head south out of the park to the Río Cochamo Valley with its granite domes and breathtaking scenery. Over the Estuario de Reloncaví, heading towards the third city of the region, Puerto Montt, the Parque Nacional Alerce Andino protects a forest of rare alerce, coigüe and ulmo trees and a variety of birds and animals.

Puerto Montt, where the adventure begins…

In the 1980s the fish farming industry created a boom in the city of Puerto Montt and salmon is now one of Chile’s top five exports, providing work to thousands of people. Important also for transportation connections in every direction, it is also possible to embark fro Puerto Montt, on a luxury cruise with Cruceros Skorpios, all the way south to Laguna San Rafael, taking in Chiloé and various other delights along the way. Angelmó, near the port, offers a myriad of artisan crafts and seafood dining. The Iglesia Catedral on the Plaza de Armas is the town’s oldest building and is built entirely from alerce wood. Those in search of a little conventional entertainment can head to the mall for the latest films.

Crossing Canal Chacao by ferry from Pargua, 56km south of Puerto Montt, travellers disembark onto the enigmatic island of Chiloé.

Commercialism only reached the island when Puerto Montt was founded in the mid-19th century and by remaining cut off from the mainland until recent history, a unique culture, architecture and identity heavily dependent on sea life and steeped in mysticism, was formed.

The Chonos and Huilliches, a section of the Mapuche tribe, were the first inhabitants of the island. In the 16th century the Spanish arrived and with them came the Jesuit missionaries, who built hundreds of

Chiloé: The Big Island. Magic, culture, tradition …

wooden churches, 16 of which are UNESCO heritage. These fascinating structures represent a fusion of cultures and architectural feats. Some painted brightly, others left bare yet full of architectural detail, pull the focus of every traveller to this special island.

Quirky stilted houses known as palafitos are yet another architectural wonder of the island. Dotted along coastal estuaries they are able to accommodate the island’s massive tidal shifts.

Chiloé’s unique mythology rivals that of the Greeks and together with Catholicism, a spiritual culture drawn from the island’s connection with the ocean brought forth creatures such as the beautiful Pincoya who dances to her husband’s music and ensures the coast provides rich harvests of shellfish and the dangerous brujos and perverse Trauco who attempt to frighten or corrupt the lives of the Chilote folk.

Island myths

El Caleuche: a ghostly pirate ship steered by singing and dancing brujos (warlocks) that lure commercial vessels into El Caleuche’s trap.

Viuda (meaning “widow”): is a tall woman dressed in black with milk-white bare feet. She seduces lonely men by night, disappearing in the morning light.

Invunche: an odious, flesh-eating creature that was born human but brutally disfigured by the brujos.

Trauco: a repugnant forest gnome who is irresistible to young virgins and gives them erotic dreams, sometimes even a child out of wedlock.

Fiura: Trauco’s woman, she is an old hag with breath that causes sciatica.

Pincoya: a naked woman of great beauty who dances to her husband’s music. The coast is fertile if she looks towards the sea and barren if she turns away.

Cai-Cai Vilú: the serpent god of water who fought against Ten-Ten Vilú, the serpent god of the earth. He lost the battle but managed to cover sufficient territory with water, enabling Chiloé to stay an island.

La Voladora: a messenger for the brujos who vomits out her intestines making her light enough to fly.

On a culinary level, there is much evidence that suggests Chiloé is the original home of the humble potato and the abundance of shellfish hauled up from the shores must surely be proof enough of mystical Pincoya at work. The famous “curanto”, a hearty stew of shellfish, meat and potatoes, is prepared in an earthy hole lined with hot coals and covered by leaves which form a natural pressure cooker producing a sumptuous medley of flavours – try it!

The rainy climate of Chiloé is far from depressing and maintains the misty charm of the island. The locals understand the rain, accept it and even seem to love it. They go about their business, often soaked to the bone, wearing the rain quite comfortably like a second skin. Ancud, the island’s first main town, offers some interesting highlights. A visit to Museo Regional Aurelio Bórquez displays the history of the island, the architecture of the churches and a wonderful collection of photographs. Also, Fuerte San Antonio near the harbour was Spain’s last Chilean stronghold. A week long festival in January, Semana Ancuditana, promotes the island’s traditions and an annual shore fishing championship is held in February. The islands of Pingüinera Puñihuil to the west are breeding grounds for Magellanic and Humboldt penguins.

On the trail to Castro, travellers should sample a number of delights along the way. Tranquil Quemchi is a relaxing spot to pause for a rest and the colourful church at Tenaún further on will keep cameras clicking. Visitors to Isla Quinchao, accessed via Dalcahue, will be rewarded by the charming wood shingled houses of Curaco de Vélez. In the summer months it is usual to dine, outdoors, on an abundance of seafood and salmon with delicious homemade bread. Visit Achao’s glorious 18th century, Iglesia Santa María de Loreto with beautiful alerce shingles and high tower as you loop around the island.

The best way to explore the popular town of Castro is to wonder its hilly streets and palafito lined estuary. Dominating the main plaza is the arresting pink and violet Iglesia San Fancisco which cannot help but draw crowds. Festival del Huaso Chilote in January and Festival Costumbrista in February are well worth catching. Cute little Chonchi boasts Iglesia San Carlos de Borroneo, a captivating church with multiple arches dating back to the mid-19th century. Ferries to nearby islands also make wonderful day excursions.

Palena: Wild nature …

The terrain west of Chonchi encompasses Parque Nacional Chiloé. The southern section of the park is the most accessible and nearly all hikes and trails start from there. Indigenous communities inhabit the eastern perimeter of the park. Nature enthusiasts should be on the look out for the shy little pudú, the smallest of deer species.

As you head back to Puerto Montt from Quellón and pass through the verdant rainforests of the island’s south and the undulating hills of the north, watch out for mystical Pincoya or troublesome Trauco, who may show you some more island secrets along the way.

Head southeast from Puerto Montt and enter the final province belonging to Región de los Lagos, Palena. The sparsely populated Palena province is divided into counties, Hualaihué, Chaitén, Futaleufú and Palena. Leaving behind the conventional luxuries of Lago Llanquihue, this sparsely populated province takes its travellers on an entirely different journey southwards, through an enchantment of fjords, islands and glaciers, snowy peaks, crystalline lakes and raging rivers all surrounded by the mystical silence of ancient moss covered trees.

For thousands of years this region was inhabited by the indigenous tribes of the Chonos and Alacalufes along the coast and the Tehuelche people inland. The Jesuit missionaries from Chiloé were the first to explore the rugged mountains and dense forests of this region. They were followed by explorers Bartolomé Diaz and Antonio de Vea in the late 17th century and in the 18th and 19th centuries by many others, including British Captain Robert Fitzroy accompanied by naturist Charles Darwin.

The relaxed town of Hornopirén in county Hualaihué is a good starting point for explorations and is reached either via the coastal road, passing interesting seaside villages along the way or the Carretera Austral (No 7), which travels inland through native forests. Whilst in Hornopirén do not miss the opportunity to meet a typical Mapuche community at El Cobre beach before heading off to explore surrounding areas such as waterfalls Trayenco, Chaqueihua and Río Blanco. Parque Nacional Hornopirén offers hiking amidst alerce, coigüe, lenga and ulmo native forests and a rustic camping experience next to the pristine white beach of Lago General Pinto Concha.

Isla Llancahué, a short boat trip from Hornopirén, hosts an attractive hot springs resort. Visitors can take a pleasant dip in a choice of both indoor and outdoor pools where the warm waters of the spring mix delightfully with the ocean.

Heading south into the more rugged, isolated terrain of county Chaitén the Chai Chai waterfall in Parque Palena and the relaxing transparent waters of Santa Bárbara beach are all worth visiting. Fishing enthusiasts will find both Lago Blanca and Lago Negro excellent for fishing as is Lago Yelcho, a lake of unforgettable blue, further south. Lago Yelcho is a favourite amongst ananglers who enjoy the luxurious comforts of Chilean fishing lodge, Yelcho en la Patagonia.

Brown and Rainbow trout, are fished in both the Palena and Tigre rivers, the latter is the only location where stream trout are found. The Malito and El Azul rivers are also well known for their fishing characteristics of several species: Atlantic salmon, King salmon, Brown, and Rainbow trout. Fly fishing in this region is normally operated on a catch and return basis to ensure in favour of a sustainable future for this sport.

Southeast of the town Chaitén, Termas el Amarillo with two pools overlooking Río Michinmahuida should ease any aching muscles before exploring the famous Parque Pumalín owned by North American Douglas Tomkins. Protecting some 2889km of southern Chilean rainforest between Hornopirén and Chaitén, the park is beautifully maintained and boasts a variety of hikes from three hours to three days surrounded by indigenous forest, waterfalls and lakes with views of Volcán Michinmahuida. In the northern section of the park, Sendero Cascadas, Sendero los Alerces, Cascadas Escondidas and Sendero Mirador are beautiful attractions and make for wonderful hiking and nature observation. In the southern section of the park a hike of intense beauty starts at Ventisquero Bridge and takes in glacier Yelcho, an impressive hanging glacier where camping is permitted. Tour operators can coordinate horseback trekking or boating and kayaking trips through the fjords as well as to some more remote hot springs.

The sleepy town of Futaleufú, southeast of Chaitén is the main service centre for county Futaleufú. Adventure seekers worldwide come to this region in anticipation of the infamous fury of Río Futaleufú, affectionately known as the “Fu” by seasoned kayakers and rafters. Local and U.S. agencies coordinate adventure packed holidays including a variety of friendly accommodation options such as the lovely shingled house of Residential Ely or Lodge Frontera Patagónia, with lovely valley views and swimming holes. Riverside camping at the Cara del Indio campsites include the delightful perk of a wood burning sauna.

The final county of Palena experiences a shift into more moderate temperatures which have created a variation of natural characteristics. The wide valleys of El Malito, El Tranquilo and El Diablo offer spectacular horseback riding. It is recommended to visit these areas with local guides knowledgeable on seasonal animal movements, native flora and the best excursion routes. The Golondrina and Negra lagoons with mirror-like waters reflecting mountains are fabulous fly fishing locations. Río Palena is the county’s main attraction for kayakers and rafters who can navigate the entire river all the way to the Pacific Ocean. The town hosts the Rodeo de Palena at the end of January every year.

Parque Lago Palena, which forms the southern boundary of the Region de los Lagos, was created in 1965 as part of the Huemul preservation project. The Huemal deer is on the verge of extinction and the project aims to protect this fragile species throughout the X Region. As the terrain is rough, it is best to use four wheel drive vehicles and some areas are accessed only on horseback between mountains and valleys of great beauty. Look out for the impressive Andean Condor, whose enormous wingspan will help to carry home your memories of the Región de los Lagos.Chilean tourist board, SERNATUR has created an exciting new project focusing on a “club of products” that cover six key areas: mountains, hot springs, fishing, nature, nautical and cultural. Look out for these individual brochures in SERNATUR offices and municipality buildings nationwide. In addition, SERNATUR is in a process of regulation that certifies Chilean institutions to international levels of quality, service and assurance. Consult www.calidadtouristica.cl; www.enn.cl; www.sernatur.cl; www.corfo.cl in anticipation of your travels.