The Homes of Pablo Neruda

Pablo Neruda is universally acclaimed to be one of the greatest poets of the 20 century and one of the most influential writers the Spanish language has ever produced. Every year, thousands of writers from around theworld pilgrimage to visit the poet's three homes, which capture the unique spirit of a man who transformed their lives.

But Neruda was not only a Nobel laureate, diplomat and political activist. He was also a jokester who loved to entertain friends at home.

To step into one of Neruda's homes is to experience his unique way of appreciating the world. The flamboyant use of space and eclectic interior décor shed personal light on his literary legacy,even for the most well-read Neruda admirer. For those who know little about this 20th century literary giant, a visit to one of his homes offers an ideal introduction.

Valparaiso and the nearby coastal town of Isla Negra host two of Neruda's homes. (His third, "La Chascona," is in Santiago.) "La Sebastiana" (on Bellavista Hill in Valparaiso) and "Isla Negra" both sit in charming locations boasting ocean views that can't be beat.

True Neruda fanatics may be surprised to discover a little known 4th home inValparaíso! While supposedly exiled from Chile in the 1950’s, Neruda was actually hiding out in the basement of a house in Lecheros Hill. Today, a small plaque commemorates the spot where Neruda wrote several important sections of his epic, CANTO GENERAL. Neruda is most well known to English readers for 20 Love Poems and a Song of Despair (published in 1924 at the age of 20), but he also wrote biting satire, deliciously sensual odes, works of sincere introspection, political t manifestos, and some of the most startling surrealist poetry every produced in Spanish or any other language.

Neruda held diplomatic posts in Rangoon, Buenos Aires, Barcelona, and Mexico. In Spain, he coordinated the transport and welcome of more than 2,000 Spanish Civil War refugees to Valparaiso aboard the ship "Winnipeg." As amazing as it seems, this tiny delegation later produced three painters who would go on to earn Chile's national painting prize, several noted writers, and other individuals who would contribute heavily to the culture of their adopted land.

During his 69 years, Neruda was a living legend who attracted huge crowds of literary elite in every country he visited. His lucid, biting humor could alleviate even the most tense situations. His wife Matilde Urrutia once said, "I deeply admired the laughing and daring spirit that Pablo possessed, even in the most solemn moments. When he was dressing in preparation for the Nobel Prize acceptance ceremony he looked at the tails of his tuxedo and laughed. 'I feel the same sensation as when I get dressed in costume for our parties at Isla Negra.

If only I could paint on my moustache, everything would be perfect,' he said. "When Pablo got dressed in costume, which he loved to do, he would always paint on a moustache with a burned piece of cork. It was a small moustache and he had mastered the application with such dexterity that it always came out exactly the same, without even needing to look at himself in a mirror."

This ebullient spirit and the versatile interests of Neruda remain alive in the rooms and hallways of his homes.

"When Pablo got dressed in costume, which he loved to do, he would always paint on a moustache with a burned piece of cork. It was a small moustache and he had mastered the application with such dexterity that it always came out exactly the same, without even needing to look at himself in a mirror."

LA SEBASTIANA
Construction of La Sebastiana had been left incomplete for years for being so absurd, dangerous, and impractical. "The top floor was destined to be a bird house and the terrace a landing pad for helicopters and possible space explorers," joked Neruda.
In 1961 Neruda discovered La Sebastiana while looking for "a little house in Valparaiso to live and write in peace." And he added a few more conditions: "It can't be either too high or too low. It should be solitary, but not too much so. Neighbors, hopefully invisible. They shouldn't be seen or heard. Original but not uncomfortable. Winged but firm. Neither too big nor too small. Far from everything but close to locomo-tion. Independent but with businesses close by. And of course, it has to be affordable." All these criteria were met by La Sebastiana.

The name “La Sebastiana” comes from the architect Sebastián Collau, who edified a number of important buildings in the neighborhood, including an interesting castle just down the slope from La Sebastiana.

After Neruda's death in 1973 his widow, Matilda Urrutia, decided to close the house and not return. For 18 years La Sebastiana was as deserted as a haunted house.

Along with Chile's return to democracy years later, the Pablo Neruda Founda-tion began working to restore the home. In 1992 the doors again opened to the public. Later,the foun-dation opened an art gallery, plaza, bookstore, and a cultural space where Chile's most prominent writers, poets, and intellectuals gather to read their work. The foundation has also landscaped the ravine below the house, creating a lovely park that makes for a reco-mmendable stroll upon touring the house.



La Sebastiana offers spectacular views of Valparaiso's colorful hillsides and glistening port. The Valparaiso Foundation, Gato Tuerto Restaurant, and Open Air Museum are only four blocks down the hill, making for a pleasant combined tour. Poetry rea-dings and cultural events frequently occur on site and a visit to the home can easily be worked into a tour of Bellavista Hill

ISLA NEGRA
Neruda bought Isla Negra in 1939 from a retired Spanish naval captain. At the time the house was only half-finished, but Neruda was immediately enchanted with its location and enticing aroma of native trees combined with salty sand and sea algae. Over the years Isla Negra was re-designed and re-decorated countless times to indulge Neruda's creative whims and fascination with maritime culture.

The house nestles in a peaceful, treelined setting about an hour south of Valparaiso. Its expansive windows, ship-like ambiance, multi-colored glass bottles, and seashell, key, insect, book, pipe, and miniature ship collections meld in an eccentric balance of land and sea inspiration.

Neruda's home at Isla Negra hosts a certain magic, magic which has been shared with more than 1,200,000 visitors since the Neruda Foundation opened its doors to the public in May of 1990.
"In my house I have brought together toys small and big, without which I could not live. The child that does not play is not a child; but the man that does not play has lost forever the child that lived in him and that he needs. I have built my house as if it were a toy and I play in it from morning to night," Neruda once said.

Indeed, as though testifying to the poet's youthful spirit, a plate with plastic fried eggs and sausage that Neruda often used to play tricks on his friends still sits on the dining room table.